08.07. - Flight to Beijing
The flight was strenuous, but I still managed
to take a few pictures of clouds and other things. Like I usually
do. I hope you enjoy them. The interesting thing about this flight
was that it never became dark, as we flew very far north and above
the polar circle.
09.07. - The Convention Center, Day 1
I guess it does not make sense to write all this at some later
point. There are just too many impressions.
At the moment
I didn't get a good view of China or even Beijing thus far. The
place we are stuck at, the Jiuhua Resort and Convention Center, its
like a Disneyland for convention-goers. Chinese kitsch mingled with
compliance to westerners everywhere. I don't really know what to
think of it, but one thing is for certain, this is not what I
imagined when I decided to go to China. I'm not complaining. My
hotel room is fine, luxurious even, compared to what I'm usually
used to (aka. staying at friend's places, youth hostels, cheap
motels, or plain sleeping in tents or under the stars), it's four
stars after all. The people and staff are nice - just what you
expect from Chinese, friendly and fourth coming to a fault. Always
ready to please, flustered/confused/ashamed when they don't manage
to do so and still trying. I guess I just didn't expect things to
be so' clean!
It's almost scary how polished the floors
are, how well tended the carpets etc. Well, at least some things
hold true: there is smog and lots of it (I still pretend it to be a
thick mist, but I don't know much longer I can keep this charade
up), and we're not even remotely central Beijing (the drive from
the city center takes about one and half hours). And people smoke
in buildings - even though I've been told that the amount of
smoking has decreased and I even saw some non-smoking signs in some
places (even though I don't know what good that will do if you have
a bin/ash tray about 10 meters beside it around the corner).
Also the food is probably fatty. Most of it is covered either in a
thick, slimy or oily sauce, or fried or dumped or dipped in oil in
one way or another. Sometimes even both. And also Chinese eat warm
three times a day. I love this food already. But then again, I've
never been fussy about food (I love British food as well, so that
probably says enough). Contrary to some persistent rumors, Chinese
kitchen isn't that spicy at all most of the time.
After a
direct taxi ride from the airport to the convention center together
with my boss, I spent the day walking around and taking in the
facilities. Apparent this place lives up to its name of resort. You
have a swimming pool, massages, mud baths, hot springs and all that
jazz. Damn, I knew I should have thought of bringing a bathing
suit. There is also a monorail, which is useless since you're
faster walking about, and a half built rollercoaster without carts.
I'm not sure why.
Also there are these Shenmue-like
déjà vus I keep getting. Some things, like those
signs you get above some rooms just look exactly like in the game.
It's interesting.
10.07. - The Convention Center, Day 2
I spent most of my time sitting in my room and
working on my talk, which was in a way rather depressing, since
even if you want to go out, the convention center area is the only
place you can go - kind of like a softly padded prison really and
in itself even more depressing, since it's for some reason rather
vacated. Also you don't want to go out because of the smog - so you
can either choose between air conditioned, sometimes stuffy rooms,
or the humid, hot, smog filled air outside.
11.07. - The Convention Center, Day 3
Today we had our little workshop about wild cat
species in China, I won't bore you with the details. But I think,
personally I think we did reasonably well, and it went more or less
as I expected.
Finally I also want to lose a few words on
Chinese and work. What you have to know about this resort is, there
are some areas that are pretty, but when you go to the back places
you can get some rather dirty areas, rusted piping or pillars, and
streets in dire need of repair. Disneyland's grimy backside, so to
speak. Some of the buildings are actually still being built, so
remind me to check how old or new this place actually is
(scaffolding is often made of timber or bamboo, something I find
fascinating coming from a country where bamboo isn't growing
naturally)! So, about work - where we are trying to reduce staff,
the Chinese seem to make an art out of over-employing certain
posts. Maybe that only counts for this place here, but often when
for example only one person is needed, there are mostly two or
three people (as in: people showing you into a restaurant at the
door - no not showing to you to your table, just gesturing you in).
That invariably leads to people just standing around in some areas
with nothing to do. When I had room service the other day I had no
less than a battalion of four people coming into my room, and all
they did was one person changing the toilet paper and another one
making the bed, while the other two were just standing around.
Cleaning staff in the public toilets were three people standing
around, waiting for people to use the toilet, so they could clean
it again. And in stores around here, small stores, there are mostly
five or six employees walking around, mostly just talking or
jesting, while I was sometimes the only costumer. I have read and
heard about the Chinese being a people of workers, but I guess I
never really grasped the full meaning of it up until now. I don't
even want to think about what the minimum wage is or how much
people will have to work to make a living. Also, the employed
people here are young, generally. Not much older than I am at
least, though I wonder if that will change when I'm going to the
less surreal parts of Beijing and actually into town.
13.07. - An Evening out
Ok, now I can't deny it anymore. This is definitely smog. It's
thick, it's yellowish, and it stinks slightly of sulfur. You can't
see the sky and the sad thing is, one of the central areas of our
building we're in is actually so big, that you can even slightly
see it in the air looking from one end of the hall to the other or
from the bottom of the lobby all the way to the 15 or so stories
upwards to the ceiling. It's incredible and fascinating. And I'm
breathing this stuff right now. Some people even breathe it in and
out all their lives!
On some other news: we spent an
evening out with Shujin, her husband Aster and all their friends
this night. They took us to a charming restaurant within the 4th
ring road of Beijing. Pictures are below.
14.07. - Different definitions
I went sightseeing today. I didn't like the tour much, as I don't
like tours in general, but I learned some interesting things about
the Chinese especially from one western person, who participated in
the tour and who works and lives in China.
For example,
the Chinese understand something completely different under the
word renovating than the Europeans - if they renovate a building,
even a complex as old as the Forbidden City, they always demolish
it and rebuild it from scratch (and they actually did that with the
Forbidden City and the Palace of Heaven). That is also the case for
normal buildings. Usually they don't have a lifespan which is
longer than 10 years, and then they get demolished and rebuilt. I
wonder how that reflects on people's real estate strategies.
Another funny thing about house ownership is: as a counteraction to
the people migrating from the country to the city, the Chinese
government has issued a sort of passport that allows people to only
live within their home city. If they go to University, they own a
pass for the city they go to university to and if they graduate
they are returned their hometown pass. They can only live in the
city, if they own property there. Now, cites have a tendency to
expand and new quarters are stomped out of the ground every then
and again - and naturally they make good new territories for land
people. But these new parts of the city mostly don't include
shopping malls and all the other infrastructure of a city, but only
housing - and that means, people buy property there, but don't
inhabit it, because the location is just so bad. They live
somewhere else instead, even though they own property - they just
own it to ensure them a city pass. So most of these new city
sectors actually remain vacated, very much like a ghost town or a
town after a nuclear dropdown.
Also, Chinese seem to have
a different perspective on what's clean and what's dirty. For the
Chinese it is for example important that you wash your feet as
often as you can, especially before you go to bed or enter a house.
But not washing your hair is not considered to be filthy, as most
Chinese believe that a bit of oil in your hair is good for it (and
easier for styling). Mold is not considered to be a problem or
isn't disturbing, while it's absolutely unthinkable to wash your
clothes with anything less warm than boiling hot water.
The information is from a person working in Yunnan Province.
Anyway, our first stop was the Temple of Heaven
and it's surrounding, lively, bustling park. Then we went to a Silk
Factory.
After lunch we went to the Tiananmen (the
People's Square) the biggest square in the world and then to the
Forbidden City.
15.07. - More Sightseeing
I took my second tour today, going to the
Summer Palace first and then to a Pearl Factory and a Tea Drinking
Session.
After lunch the Hutong (Beijing's old town),
and the Bell Tower were next.
After the tour, I tried to go directly to the
hotel - and it took me a whole lot of time to find it: three tries
with the Subway and a lot of assistance from very helpful Chinese
people (including my tour guide, Elena). I had no telephone number
or the Chinese character name of the hotel, and no means of
communication with Luke, since my mobile phone was not working. So
I was lucky that I found it after all! After the whole ordeal was
over, I finally met up with Luke, my love.
16.07. - A day in Beijing
Today we took a stroll to the silk market in the morning and walked
through some shopping centers. The silk market, I heard is a chance
to get tourist things for a relatively cheap prince - but for what
we wanted that argument was pretty much not valid. If you suck at
haggling, the silk market is certainly no good choice at all and if
you want to buy tea sets, chopsticks and fans, you should rather go
either to the local malls or the convenience stores. You'll pay at
least a tenth of the price you pay anywhere else.
There are so
many impressions, I could write down. For example: on the street,
while other people walk when there's a red light and no cars are
coming, Chinese people just walk all the time, if there are cars or
not. Sometimes even when there's a rather large road with heavy
traffic. That mostly leads to a kind of benevolent chaos at street
crossings - with a lot of running and slow walking from the people
and honking from the cars.
Chinese can be very racist towards people of
other colors - especially towards black people. We saw a scene in
the subway where two black people came in and stood next to some
Chinese women and they actually started pinching their noses, as if
these black people were reeking to high heavens (at some point I
also saw a lady do that when we sat down in a McDonalds, and I was
sure I didn't smell worse than her).
Something we somehow decided to do spontaneously, before the train
left, was to go and see Harry Potter. We were lucky to see it at
the cinema in the main shopping street. We got to the showing about
10 minutes late. But it was ok. Somehow I was even hoping that the
movie would be in Mandarin, but it was in English, with Chinese
subtitles.
So we saw a lot of shopping malls today: the Silk
Market, a tourist trap, a really posh market, where things cost at
least twice as much a Swiss person would pay for them (but things
still looked like they were poor quality). Also a chaotic market
kind of mall, kind of like the Silk Market, but for local people,
and a very European-looking convenience store, that actually had
bread and even cheese!
I'm writing this entry on the train
down to Shanghai. I feel really comfy and tired here, that's why my
sentences don't make much sense anymore. This train is amazing. It
has beds, cover and even a small digital TV screen with four
channels over each bed. It's crazy!
Oh yeah - by the way.
There were a lot of people in Beijing train station. They are
sitting and standing around everywhere. Some travel only with huge
plastic bags or with these rice bags made from these sort of
strange plastic fibers. The plaza in front of the train station was
packed, as were the waiting rooms for the people. Outside people
were sitting on newspapers and inside they were sitting on chairs
and just standing around, where sitting was not allowed. I never
saw such a mass of people before and it was never so lively and
hectic as within this train station.
Of course I'm sticky with
a mixture of sweat and pollution and I must smell absolutely
disgusting, but I don't care. I feel rather comfortable.
17.07. - Shanghai, Day 1
Shanghai greeted us with a very un-cozy 37 degrees Celcius and
nearly 90% of humidity.
After checking into the hotel in the
morning we walked around in the city, down Nanjing road to the
Bund, where we fell into a tourist trap called the 'Bund Tunnel' or
something like that. It looked like an abandoned subway that had
been transformed into a pseudo tourist attraction and ferried us
through under the Huang Pu River to Pudong. Once there we soon
found ourselves within reach of the Shanghai TV tower. For a mere
150 Y per person you could go all the way to the top and there was
even a place where you could walk around on the outside of the
tower over a glass floor - it was rather scary, since at times I
still suffer from vertigo.
After a short break at the hotel, we set out
again to find to find the place from where our ship for the Huang
Pu river tour would leave. Since there were almost three hours left
we decided to walk. We soon found out that because of the impending
Shanghai Expo in 2010 most of Shanghai along the west side of the
Huang Pu River was covered under huge construction sites. We did
find the old town on our way with all its shops and part of the
more down trod areas of the old town. After that, however, we had
trouble finding the docking area and once we found it we had no
idea at what peer we were supposed to leave off. So we walked forth
and back to no avail. When we finally started asking people, they
too seemed not to know where our boat was. We were pointed to pier
one, but those on pier one were adamant that this pier was not the
right one and pointed us to pier six. Finally, we found a nice
ticket lady, who tried to help us by accompanying us and ask around
for us in Chinese - luckily she understood us. After talking to a
few staff there, someone who looked like he was at least the eldest
if not the superior of the lot came to talk to our translator. He
begged us to show our tickets to him and then took them and
disappeared with them after telling us to wait. We already expected
that we were scammed over and that we would never see our tickets
again - but then he came back and said that our tickets were for a
different boat, wrong or whatever and that the tickets here were
more expensive (not 70 but 100 Y per person). Personally, the
thought that we got scammed over crossed my mind again, but finally
we were so happy, that we paid the additional Yuan gladly. Luke
gave them 100 as we didn't have anything smaller at that time. The
trouble was that the guy didn't have any change and even though we
said it didn't matter, he insisted that he'd give us change and
strolled over to all the other staff that was there and asked them.
Soon we were surrounded by five or six Chinese all fumbling in
their pockets for what money they had to give to us - and we even
caught our boat on time!
You can't really see it on the photos, but the
skyline from the Huang Pu River is rather amazing! All of the
buildings along the river seem to break out into some sort of light
show contest, and some even use their windows as brightly lit
screens. It's really quite amazing.
After that we took a taxi home as our feet were
sore from all the walking.
18.07. - Shanghai, Day 2
We were just leaving the hotel to go and visit some of the temples,
when we were talked to by a few youths, who said they were from
Nanjing. They were interested in us, and their English was rather
good. We thought we talk to them for a while, after all, what harm
could it do? They claimed to be on a visit to Shanghai because one
of their friends was getting married here and now they didn't have
anything to do. They also said they were going to a tea festival
ceremony and asked us if we wanted to go along. It sounded
interesting. We left with them and they took us to a small backdoor
store that looked more like an apartment than anything else and
Luke guessed immediately that we were getting scammed over, but was
too afraid to say something, because of all the rumors we had heard
about such scams. We had indeed a nice kind of tea drinking
ceremony with explanations on how to make the tea - they also
didn't poison us as far as we know up until now and they didn't
drug us and steal all we owned either. They were just interested in
getting our money. In the end we lost about 100 bucks on tea
drinking, as the testing of one kind of tea was horrendously
expensive for Chinese standards. Well, we got scammed over today,
that's for sure. The scam was rather good, even a bit more
elaborate than I wrote here - otherwise we may not have fallen for
it. It's a lesson well learned and luckily we came out of it with
no harm done except a slightly bruised and battered ego. It was a
lesson well learned and now we try to be a little more careful. So
to all you others out there: never follow Chinese, no matter how
young or old or whatever they are, that call out to you on the
streets. Talk to them, be nice and then say you have other things
to do. I know that this may be rather obvious to most of you, who
are not as na've than we were, but that's just for the records.
After that episode we decided to go and see the Jade Buddha Temple
in the northwest of our hotel. See the pictures for some
impressions. We decided to walk back to our hotel from there and
wandered through some interesting areas with small stores. When we
arrived back at the shopping mall area we just collapsed at a
H''gen Dasz and treated us to some ice cream - mostly as a plaster
for our still bruised ego.
Finally, we returned to our
room, we were too tired for any more escapades.
19.07. - Shanghai, Day 3
We decided to see if there is a Chinese opera
we could go and see tonight, and so our first action was to find
the Shanghai Theatre. We found it quickly enough, but found out
that our plans would be thwarted by something rather western: every
day and every evening until the one where we would leave Shanghai,
knew only one performance: 'High School Musical the Stage
Production'. And that was something we certainly did not want to
see (even though I think that Dominik, a good friend of mine, would
have gotten a kick out of this). What we only found out later was
that the whole cast and crew of the production was actually housed
in our hotel (which explained things like a lot of blokes with High
School Musical T-Shirts being at our breakfast, and a lady in our
elevator singing beautifully).
We decided to visit the 'ancient town' as
opposed to the 'old town'. The place was called Qibao and was at
the very edge of Shanghai, it took us about one and a half hours by
taxi. After a bit of looking around, a bus ride and some friendly
help from locals, we found ourselves in yet another tourist traps
mainly with shops. Qibao is mainly a few streets on a river, where
one could even take a tour on a boat. But somehow we were so
shocked by all the kitschy stuff they sold, that we just took a
quick stroll through it and then decided to go back into the city
center by subway.
We finally found Yuyuan Gardens in the old town
- which was only a short visit, as we were starting to get tired
again from walking. It was almost 40 C' and the air was very humid
after all.
Later we walked back to Nanjing road and took
the subway back to our hotel.
21.07. - Next Stop, Hong Kong
We took another night train to Hong Kong. It
wasn't as luxurious as the previous one, but I slept well. The
train brought us from Shanghai to Shenzhen, a city at the border to
the Hong Kong enclave, where we had to fill out all the forms that
passing over a country border entailed. Once we successfully passed
through all the formalities, we took a train from the Shenzhen
station to Hong Kong Island and our hotel there in Wan Chai.
We couldn't check into our hotel immediately,
so we took stroll to the nearest parts of the city, down Hennessey
and Lockhart Rd to Causeway Bay.
When we could finally check in properly, we
took the small tram to Victoria peak. Truth been told, the view
from there is really spectacular, but they had also built a
monstrosity of a tourist shopping mall at the top of that hill,
with highly expensive restaurants (we still ate something in a
restaurant with the funny name of 'Run Forest Run', even though it
was highly overpriced). In a desperate attempt to flee a bit from
the tourist areas we took a stroll further up the side of the hill
and found a really nice little park with butterflies.Finally, we
decided to walk down the hill. After all, it wasn't all that far,
and the hill was steep, so we entered the houses quickly. We soon
found out, that we had landed ourselves in the bar street of Hong
Kong. A lot of white people seemed to like and frequent the place,
but since Luke and I are not really the kind of guys who like to go
out at night, we didn't linger.
22.07. - Repulse Bay, Aberdeen and Man Mo Temple
Today we decided to take a look at the southern part of Hong Kong
Island. Since most of the center of the island is a forest national
reserve, the south looked rather different at first sight. There
were a lot less skyscrapers, a lot less inhabited areas. Our bus,
however, dropped us in the middle of a tourist resort. There were
insanely huge hotels, lining a rather deserted beach. Either we
just didn't come at the right time of the day or didn't pick the
right season or this place too was suffering from the financial
crisis - then again, the water didn't look all the welcoming
either. Not that it was dirty, but somehow you didn't want to go in
there.
We found Repulse Bay (called like that because
pirates were successfully repulsed by the British fleet), our first
goal on our day's list rather quickly. The place our guide referred
us to was very surreal. A jumbled assembly of mosaic covered
statues without any order or any understandable reason why they
would stand there. There were Buddhas, all sorts of animals and
most peculiar structure of all was the so called 'Longevity
Bridge', a small red bridge that according to the legend added
three more days to your lifespan should you cross it.
After this little adventure we walked along the
south coast of Hong Kong Island for a while, but soon found it was
probably better to take the bus (it was getting rather hot again,
after all). Our next stop was Aberdeen - which didn't look like the
Shenmue Aberdeen at all, but more like the other parts of Hong Kong
on the northern parts of the island. We took a boat ride around
Aberdeen bay and amongst other sights saw the floating restaurant,
which didn't look as charming from the back as it did from the
front.
Later we decided to go back to the northern
part of the island and visit Man Mo Temple, another Shenmue
location. Even though the temple doesn't look like much from the
outside, it sure is impressive from the inside. Especially the
incense coils. One thing that is quite like the game though, is the
streets with one antique shop after the other, and there is a stair
leading to the temple, even though it's not nearly as impressive as
the one in the game. One thing lead to another and we also strolled
down several market streets on our way home. We didn't actually buy
anything, but it was still interesting, and I enjoy markets just
for the window shopping aspect as well. You never know what you'll
see...
23.07. - Kowloon
Our trip to the main land. We mainly went to
the Chi Lin Nunnery on Diamond Hill. And to a park that was not in
our guide. I was rather surprised at how peaceful the district
around the nunnery was. There was hardly any traffic and there were
also a lot less skyscrapers around here. Everything seemed so
serene. On our way to the park we passed something that looked like
an old people's home and I couldn't imagine a better place for it.
In the evening we were rather surprised to find a vegetarian
restaurant. Usually most people in China don't apparently don't
understand if you mention to them that you're a vegetarian (you get
further by telling them that you're a Buddhist), but here it seemed
to be different. We soon found out that the restaurant specialized
on copying anything that was made of meat with a tofu alternative.
You could get vegetarian duck, pork etc. and it looked, and even
tasted exactly like the original. It was rather mad. Also it seemed
that Westerners were not often seen at this restaurant, and we had
the chief waitress lady hovering over us all the time, making sure
we were satisfied customers and scrutinizing every move of her
staff. It was rather disconcerting, after a while, up to the point
where I feared we would get the servants into trouble if we didn't
show our utmost satisfaction with everything they did.
Finally we were released of these clutches and bumbled down to the
night market.
24.07. - Lantau and the giant Buddha statue
Since we still had a full day's time, we decided to take a ferry to
Lantau Island in the west of Hong Kong Island. Once at Mui Wo, one
of the harbors on this side of the island, a bus took us at a
constant 40km/h (ignoring the fact that the roads were winding and
quite mountainous) to Ngong Ping.
To our astonishment we
found out that the so called Tian Tan Buddha statue, our goal, was
no more than 30 years old and that this place had also become a
incredible modern stronghold of tourist entertainment. The village
of Ngong Ping, was only a line of polished white housees with
shops. Even though I had tasted my first ever sesame ice cream
there, it still wasn't very inviting all in all. Especially because
parts of it were under heavy construction, and were supposedly
going to be a park to attract and hold even more tourists. So even
though the Buddha statue was rather impressive, it's glorious air
was somewhat dampened by all the merchandise. Po Lin temple was
interesting, if it was only for it's arm thick incense sticks.
Something I've never seen before.
What impressed me the most on this day however was the cable car
you could take leading down the mountain. As a Swiss, I've been
riding my share of fairly spectacular cable cars (unlike the two
Chinese who were in the same car with us and who were rather scared
because the rode a cable car for the first time), but what
impressed me with this one, was that the ride was around half an
hour long, and that it lead straight over a huge water inlet! I've
never see anything like that before.
This marked our last
day in Hong Kong, the next day we were already off to Guilin by
plane.
26.07. - Guilin
What can be said about Guilin is: it's a small
city - maybe about a third of the size of London, I'm not sure.
There are your usual malls, maybe a bit less glorious than those in
Shanghai, but they do the trick, there are your usual shops with
half of their items spilling out onto the street as there are
usually no front walls and there is one tourist street where it's a
pain to walk through, if you don't want to eat something as
'tourist fishers' try to convince your that their restaurant is the
best. Traffic is as chaotic yet fluid as everywhere else. What sets
Guilin apart from other cities, is its famous landscapes. Jagged
mountains surround it, and sometimes even rise out from amidst the
houses like the teeth of some enormous animal that has bitten
itself into the town and won't let go. Parks are everywhere, most
of which are free, unless you plan to choose one of those parks
surrounding one of said mountains.
Our first day in Guilin was marked by the visit
of Seven Star Park, a park consisting mostly of large areas that
looked like park areas should look like. But it also boasted its so
called camel hill, a cave that was as beautiful as it was kitschy
lit by all too colourful neon lamps and pandas. The latter were
found in a rather desolate stone and concrete fully closed cage
with only occasional permission to go into a green open enclosure.
I'm sounding a bit bitter here, but even though the park is ok, it
can't really be counted as a real attraction, as it just looks like
any other normal public park. Apart from your usual tourist shops
maybe.
After a delicious dinner we chose to go to an
internet caf' in the evening for the first time to share some of
our adventures with people at home.
27.07. - Lots of Hills
This time we decided to get one of the bamboo
raft drivers to ferry us down Li River to what's called Elephant
Hill. If you look at the pictures, it does actually look a bit like
an elephant with a trunk.
And then we decided to go to Fubo Shan (one of
the hill protruding out of the city scape) and its 1000 Buddha cave
and then to Solitary Beauty Peak (you guessed right: another hill)
and its park there. I climbed the first hill without problems, but
passed up on the second one. The humidity was just too great.
29.07. - Li River Cruise and Yangshuor
We had booked a Li River Cruise on this day. I had to admit that
the weather wasn't the best, but our tour guide did the best to
keep us in a cheerful mood. He also told us however, that the food
on the boat would be provided for, but that it would not be very
good since much of the money provided for this journey was lost to
by the local offices. Contrary to his statement though, the food
was rather good. We ate together with an Chinese family, who had a
boy about the age of Renato, one of my small brothers, and with
about the same character too. It was scary how the two resembled
each other in behavior (both amusingly impertinent and with that 'I
want this right now' attitude you only get in 9 year olds). We had
a nice chat with this family, as the mother could speak English
very well and they offered us some of their food they had only
bought for themselves. This included whole, small, river crabs,
which were delicious.
In spite of the drizzle, the
landscape was phenomenal - the photos will testify for that.
We arrived at Yangshuo in the early afternoon,
and it was what we expected and worse. Another tourist trap. So we
decided to rent a bike and try to escape from the beaten path. That
was about the best decision we could make. We came through small
villages, and could watch people working on the fields, all the
while being surrounded by those magnificent mountains. We did find
some tourist attractions on the way, but the further away we went,
the less they became, until we left them behind us altogether. Our
main route was an unfinished highway, and this together with the
twilight of the sun shining through the clouds, provided us with
some very surreal sceneries.
30.07. - The Tiger and Bear Park
Just a quick note: we visited a tiger and bear
park today. I didn't take a lot of pictures (it was forbidden, even
though everyone still took pictures anyway). Especially not of the
circus and the bears with the nose rings and all the other animals
apart from the tigers and bears being in a deplorable condition. I
felt too sorry for them.
31.07. and 01.08. - Longji Rice Terraces and Ping'An Village
We decided to stay in Ping'An at the Longji Rice Terraces for two
days instead of one. Mostly because it was a 4 hour trip by bus to
get there. The bus ride was chaotic in this very Chinese manner,
we're already used to. We had to change busses midway, but didn't
do it at a station, but in a rather hurried fashion in the middle
of the street. Going into the mountains there came a point where
the bus just couldn't move any further, because the road was too
small and winding (and was stopped by a barrier). The rest of the
way was a 20 minute walk to the village. If one was lazy one could
let oneself be carried to the village by a two man palanquin, but I
would rather eat my own backpack than ever lower myself to that
kind of thing.
Ping'An village has also suffered from
tourism, but not as bad as other places. There were the usual
tourist shops and practually the entire place made of hotel, rather
than dwellings. But the people were friendly and not as obtrusive
as in other places. The host of our hotel, even though she didn't
speak a single word of English had a wonderful humour and we had a
great time not understanding each other verbally.
What
Longji is known for are its minority people. Especially the woman
who never cut their hair and wash them in the river in the mornings
(the belief goes that, the longer your hair, the longer your life).
They also had the peculiarity of cocking meals in bamboo 'pots'
(see the pictures), even though how traditional that is, I don't
know.
The rice terraces are rather spectacular - and the
pictures, don't do them justice at all. We went for several hikes
and all were rather beautiful. In the evening we ate well. We also
met some very funny and curious Chinese tourists from Liaoning
Province, with which we could only communicate with the help of pen
and paper and sketches and a few raw words of Mandarin. They
constantly insisted on trying to buy us beer and getting us to
smoke cigarettes - and we had to constantly decline their offer, as
we don't do either and despise both (finally we told them we were
somewhat like Buddhists, which is not far from the truth, as I
don't eat meat and we don't drink alcohol or smoke). It was an
interesting experience.
The night was wonderful. Fireflies
soared through the sky and the mood shone on the terraces. Too bad
we had to leave the day after.
03.08. - Home
So this was our last day, after a day of
resting up in Guilin. We had to go the airport early and not a soul
was on the highway there. It was rather magical. The trip home took
us near 24 hours all in all.