21.12.2011 - The flight to Morocco
It was a strange flight, especially, since I
had to take the train from Zurich to Geneva, then fly back north to
Frankfurt and after that, finally make it to Casablanca. Needless
to say that I was pretty hammered when I arrived. Lucky I already
had my (long distance) taxi driver that Christophe organized for
me. He dropped me off at the hotel that was already organized for
me as well. I have to say though, the room was pretty bad. It
smelled of a mixture between smoke and a strong stench of mildew.
But the worst part was that it was right beside the elevator and
that you could hear the damn thing going up and down through the
wall right where the head of my bed was. So even though it was two
in the morning and I was dog tired, I had trouble going to sleep.
22.12.2011 - Casablanca, day 1
My first glance through the windows confirmed
what I had already seen on my short taxi drive though the city.
Most of the houses where white, and there were not an awful lot of
trees in the city. Casablanca, I realized, is cold at night and can
get pretty warm during the day. The difference is roughly 20
degrees Celsius, with it being around 5 at night and around 25
during the day, depending on the time of day.
The city has wide boulevards, reminiscent of
Paris, hinting at the French influences. My first revelation is
that my city map is pretty much rendered useless, since there are
no street signs, except on said large boulevards. So I stealthily
turned to my GPS, whenever I feel that no one is watching. There
was much less traffic on the roads and on the route I choose, there
were much more men on the streets than there are women. Men are
mostly seen in groups and woman are often alone and walk swiftly.
There are all kinds of ways woman dress in. Most of them are
dressed in the traditional way, but the closer you come to the
shopping districts of town, the more you see woman dress in the
occidental fashion. There are still distinct differences (such as
that the butt always has to be covered, and, even tough they wear
miniskirts, the legs are always covered with stockings).
The first route I took, lead me to the Hassan
II mosque, second largest in the world, as I learn on the tour I
took there. Half built on water, a circumstance that is based on a
verse in the Quran, it juts out majestically into the Atlantic
Ocean. After a pizza I took a stroll through the old medina and
learn that it and the area north of it, around the mosque do not
have running water. I even spotted the man with the cart that
brings canisters of water to the houses. As it is often the case
with cities, there were a lot of feral cats and dogs in the
streets.
If nothing else, the old Medina is a market.
Chickens are sold directly from the cages and the chose specimen's
jugular is cut right then and there, and it is bled dry according
to the ways of halal meat preparation. I saw spices, clothes, music
and video (all illegally copied in their cheap carton sliders),
music vendors with their loudspeakers walking through the streets,
blaring. Vendors selling mirrors, lamps and so much more things on
pieces of cloth on the squares on the ground. Small kiosk-like
stalls where the vendor disappears behind mountains of tissues,
drinking water and Always ultra packets. Equipment for daily use,
such as beauty products and tools. It's a place where not only
tourists, but also the poorer come to buy their daily goods. And
there is never fixed price. Even when I bought a bottle of water, I
have to trust the vendor that he sells it to me at a fair price.
As I exited the market madness that is the old medina, an old man,
all his teeth lost, started talking to me and up to this day I
wondered if he just talked to me to tell me where I can find the
best cream for the pimples on my skin or to direct me to a friend
of his, who sold art. The outer rim of the medina was another
microcosm of its own, consisting mostly of black people from the
southern African states (mostly economic refugees, wanting to go to
Europe), so sell small trinkets on cloths, and roofed stalls, run
by Moroccans, selling more expensive things.
Another thing
that added to flavour was the young boys, pulling after them boom
boxes on wheels, blaring out mostly oriental, but sometimes also
familiar music and selling black market CDs and cassettes. And
there there were the carton gatherers, walking through the streets,
calling for people to bring their cartons with a high pitched call.
After walking through the streets some more,
mostly the large ones. I stumbled across a church, of all things.
It was a strange place, completely white, made of concrete, empty
but for an eerie echo, and over-infested with pigeons. A friendly
man said I could climb the stairs for two dirham. The stairs were
almost slippery with pigeon shit, but the view from the top was
really worth the ordeal. The interesting thing was, you could even
walk over the roof, even though there was no fence or anything
preventing you from falling. So I just did that.
In the evening, I had dinner with Philip, a
friend of Christophe's and he took me to a nice little restaurant
where I tasted traditional Moroccan food for the first time. It
wouldn't be the last.
23.12.2011 - Casablanca, day 2
I asked if I could change my room, because of
the elevator sound, but the new one they gave me, was the one on
the roof and you could hear pigeons cooing and walking around on it
all night. I needed to remind myself to get something to plug my
ears with. The day before Philip told me to go and see Les Habous
and so I took off south along the streets, following my GPS, since
the streets still were not named. I still think people watching is
one of the most interesting things one can do when abroad. There
were still mostly men on the street. Men standing around car parts
on a plaza I passed, men wearing djellabas (a full body, hooded
Berber clothing), a man walking with a cart full of cardboard,
shouting to the people to bring out more for collection (I
supposed). Another thing that I noticed was, people on foot had no
rights. Even though there are marked crossings, there are to
traffic lights for them, so you just have to observe and walk
whenever no cars are coming. And pray no car will suddenly appear
out of nowhere anyhow.
When I arrived in Les Habous it was a street
with stores, slightly touristy perhaps, but very cute. You could
buy slippers and books and bags, mostly. I arrived at the small
park at the end just in time for the Friday prayer and rested there
on a bench for a while to listen to the chanting. On the same bench
sat a woman, traditionally clad, an her child and we smiled at each
other.
For lunch I went to El Bahadia, a congregation
of permanent tents where you could sit and eat. The host of the
restaurant I chose was clearly a bit out of it, when he saw a
tourist woman sitting there alone, but he did his best serve me the
camel meat I ordered (which was delicious) and patted me on the
back when I was done (which I was sure was not how he would have
treated a Moroccan woman, but seemed to be how he thought I wanted
to be treated, all in all a very strange and out of place moment).
You eat with your hands and use the bread as cutlery. I also had
tea, and observed others around me, how they prepared it: you got a
full jar and a cup, then first poured a cup, then pour it back into
the jar, to mix the sugar well and then finally you pour the first
cup.
Wandering through the streets of Derb Ghalef
nearby afterwards, I had a very strange episode when an elderly man
suddenly darted out of the crowd and touched me, just to dart back
again and leave me flabbergasted. I should have cried out in anger,
but at that moment I was just too befuddled to do so. Up to this
day I don't understand that gesture.
After I have had the feeling that I've seen
everything, I took a taxi to the Avenue de la Croniche, a long
street along the ocean. The beaches were full of people playing
football and were fishing, and if you happen to walk on the sand, a
lot of men try and talk to you. I avoided that after a while. There
were also men with horses on the beach, Berbers, that sold horse
rides to children. At the end of this avenue, I saw some sort of
construction and it was my goal to reach it. I soon realized that
it was a huge building and that I had underestimated the length of
the walk, so I was pretty tired when I finally arrived at what was
a huge mall with a Gallerie Lafayette, McDonalds and whatnot. In
the IMAX there I watched “Mission Impossible — Ghost Protocol”
there, which in itself gave me a funny episode, as one of the men
there at the till was really overly helpful and almost protective
as he tried to show me around the cinema and where everything was,
even though I had only asked him where the entrance to the actual
room was where the movie was shown (since this wasn't immediately
clear).
The taxi ride home was also very nice. I had a
good long conversation with the guy — but in the end I completely
forgot to tip him...
24.12.2012 - Casablanca, day 3
Today was time to change hotels and to get to
the hotel for the people of the tour I booked, so full of new hope
and joy to finally get rid of this noisy room I packed my stuff and
took a taxi to a small very touristy restaurant called La Squala,
another tip from Philip, and a place where they serve a superb
breakfast.
I took another walk through the old Medina and
walked to the Boulevard Al Massira and Al Khadra, the ultra-modern
high end shopping streets of Casablanca. To get some internet I had
a slice of cake and a cup of tea at the there famous restaurant
branch “Venician Ice”, which is somehow a mix between Starbucks and
a Les Champs Elysée café.
After this small break I plunged into a side
street towards the very close Maarif quarter, a set of narrow
streets filled with stores, stands, music, cars and people
everywhere and then, finally, I set out back north, through a
residential area towards the hotel (which was called the Hotel
Suisse, by the way).
It was early evening when I arrived there and
soon also the first people from the tour arrived. The first person
I met was Neera and I took a liking to her immediately. When
everyone had arrived we had a small briefing in the meeting room of
the hotel and also met our guide, Hamid, who would be a source for
joy and laughter on our tour. After that, we went to eat in a fish
restaurant at the Avenue de la Corniche.
25.12.2011 - Rabat
he first stop on our tour was Rabat, and on our
journey, we had time to introduce ourselves. First of all there was
Neera, who was a girl with Indian roots, living in Toronto, then
there were Carmela and Valerie, two Australian girls from
Melbourne. Hans and Lisette, a father and his daughter from the
Netherlands. Bruce and Claire, a couple who are originally from
South Africa, but live in London. Robert and Denise a very nice
couple from Calgary. And an Austrian woman, who I bunked with in
the hotels, but cannot for the life of me remember her name. On our
journey Hamid taught us some Moroccan proverbs and one kind of
stuck: “Don't take yourself so seriously, everybody else doesn't.”
So yes, our first stop was Rabat and it was
just pure sightseeing. First we went to see Bab Oudaïa, the lovely
little old town with the blue houses on Bou Regreg river, then,
after a short food stop, we went to the Mausoleum of Mohammed V,
more or less a congregation of pillars set on the ruins of an old
mosque and a building where a lot of people paid homage to the old
king.
For midday we had some food on the outskirts of
the souk and then plunged into said souk for an hour or two. The
market was a lot less aggressive than in Casa, and it seemed that
there were a lot less tourists as well. As with every souk, you had
an outer wall to it that separated the Medina from the modern
section of this city and as in Casa, you also had a lot of black
people, probably mostly fugitives from the south, trying to sell
things. Another thing that caught my eye was that boys always
seemed to appear in groups of three and most of the youths here
seemed to wear black leather jackets.
After Rabat, we went straight on the Meknes,
where we went to the hotel there. Dinner was at a nice little
restaurant and I had a chicken tajine. It wouldn't be the last
tajine of this vacation.
26.12.2011 - Meknes and Volubilis
For our sightseeing in Meknes we went to see
the ruins of the royal granaries and stables Heri es-Souani, which
were set near the beautiful artificial Agdal Basin. The granaries
themselves where quite extraordinary from a architectural
standpoint and made for some really nice pictures. We also took
some pictures in some modern ruins, just behind the granaries —
which displayed a lot of graffiti and drawings. I wonder what they
are used for if the guards are not looking...
Then we went to see the Mausoleum of Moulay
Ismail a rather large structure of buildings with all sorts of
calligraphy such as the Iranian Kufic style, Moroccan, Andalusian
and Ottoman. We were told the colours in the Islamic star
decorations on the walls represented different Virtues. Yellow
(saffron) was for fertility, black (mascara) for beauty, white for
purity, blue (water) for life and green for the Islam. The
horseshoes you could sometimes see in the designs represented luck
and they were done with their open side pointing downwards, so the
bad luck falls out. Another design is the hand of Fatima that wards
off the evil eye. I also learned that the Mihrab was a niche in the
mosque showing where Mecca is, and the Minbar is a sort of high
seat where the iman sits to speak to and pray with the
congregation.
After the mausoleum we went to a shop where
they sold black wood inlayed with silver, bus since this was not to
my taste, I walked around a bit. After that we went to Place Hedim
and the souk there, which was again completely different from
either the Casa or Rabat souk. First of all, a lot of food was sold
and then there was also a meat part where, as a symbol that the
meat was still fresh, they had cow heads on their stores that more
often than not gathered a lot of flies. That, mixed with the scent
of sweets attracting a lot of wasps and a lot of other food and the
narrow set stands, and the dense crowd of people, all came together
as quite intense and I have to admit that I got a little sick.
Happily, we were soon out of the fray and went for refreshments in
a restaurant the looked over the plaza.
Our time in Meknes was soon drawing to a close
after that and our bus came to take us to the Roman ruins of
Volubilis where we had a guide, leading us through the place. I
soon was reminded again what Doric, Ionic and Corinthian capitals
were told all about the layout of the old city. From the forum (the
agra) to the basilica and the temple and even a brothel. I also
hadn't known that most Romans had suffered from lead poisoning,
because the plumbing was mostly lead pipes. Most mosaics that you
could still discern were from Jupiter, Juno and Athena.
So what else did I learn these past days.
Arabic words. Shukran = Thank you., la = no, bismilla = Cheers.,
shuf! = look!, kul! = eat!, harem = hidden (opposite of halal),
mellah = salt, but also sallary (in the past you were sometimes
paid in salt).
After Volubilis we went on to Fes and ate in a
very kitchy restaurant there with belly dancers and a magician.
27.12.2011 - Being sick in Fes
In Fes I became weak and as I accompanied the
group to a vantage point that overlooked the city, I realized that
I was getting sick. So there was no guided tour to the medina, no
pottery and no tannery for me. I stayed at home in the hotel and
slept and watched a censored version of “Twilight — Eclipse”, which
was really entertaining. In the evening some of the group came to
me to see how I was. Hans offered me medication and Denise offered
me a reiki session. I politely declined one and accepted the other.
The reiki session with Denise was a very beautiful experience and I
felt better, too.
28.12.2011 - Travelling to Erfoud
The next day consisted mainly of travelling. We
passed a village where Hamid told us that it was traditional to
have an apple feast every year, since the village was famous for
its apples. He also explained that the dogs you sometimes saw at
the side of the road were feral and were waiting for food.
Sometimes people who were passing by in their cars fed them. We now
reached the mountains and soon it got colder than it was in the low
lands. We stopped in a small pine wood where Hamid told us we could
photograph monkeys (much to the joy of our best photographer,
Robert) , and there was also stand with fossils, but Hamid assured
us that there would be more beautiful fossils later on (as per his
favourite phrase: “The best is yet to come.”). We past the town
that was called Switzerland town, since it was so clean, but was
actually founded by the French for a Ski resort for rich people.
Hamid also told us that there were three Berber dialects, one in
the Middle Atlas, one in the Anti Atlas and one in the Rif
Mountains in the north.
After a small coffee break in a town that
consisted mostly of a few houses around the street we were
travelling on, we went off again.
We bought lunch at another small village and
then stopped for lunch at a small river with a wonderful view of
the surrounding landscape.
Our next stop was a huge palm tree plantation
at the foot of the Middle Atlas mountains. Hamid told us that the
palm trees belonged to everyone equally. If someone of the
community was poor then people would help this person to finance a
house and buy them food until they were able to take care of
themselves. They would even get a donkey for tilling the ground.
Marriages in these parts lasted for 3 days and the woman had to
wear black or else she would attract the evil eye. But what is the
evil eye? Hamid tells us it's a sort of doppelganger, a djinn who
can be found in natural things such as cats, dogs and waterways and
he can possess you. It really seemed that he believed in this.
Next was Erfoud, and on our way there Hamid
told us a bit of the kings of Morocco. The past king, Hassan II was
a tyrant and people didn't like him. Whenever someone spoke up, he
made people disappear. The new king Muhammed V was better. There
still was no freedom of speech in the press, but he was much more
modern than the old kind. He was for woman's rights, his own wife
was shown in public with open hair. He taking measures against
unemployment, and created better health care. His measures against
poverty were of course not entirely altruistic, as less poverty
also lessens dissensions among people and kills the seeds of
religious fundamentalism. He also allowed divorce and passed the
right that a man should now only have one woman instead of up to
four (something that was not enforced though — and in the country,
men still sometimes two women). The king is also the commander of
the army and the believers and holds the ministry of foreign
affairs.
We soon arrived in Erfoud, as we were told, a
Bedouin town at the border of the Sahara desert. There we stayed
over night in a house made entirely out of wood, straw and clay. We
had a wonderful dinner and later, people would play the drums in
the candle light.
29.12.2011 - A Jeep ride and a camel ride
In the morning Valerie, Neera, Bruce, Claire
and me took a 4x4 Jeep ride into the black mascara desert. We first
stopped at a house with some Senegalese who were singing and
dancing for us. Then we just drove for a while passing military
bases and fossils before we shortly stopped by some workers who
were digging for mascara all day and had a very enlightening
conversation. They told us that they had to work at least five days
in a row and were digging for mascara, lead and any stone that
would sell in Europe. Also their foreman was pretty cruel to them,
it seemed, since he was lazy and didn't do the work he promised. I
didn't know if they told us that to stir our sympathy or just
because they knew that we wouldn't tell anyone anyway. We also
stopped by a Bedouin house and where allowed to see what they lived
like.
When we got back we had to get some lunch and
then get ready for our camel ride. We were told how to bind a
turban and then were brought to our camels. From there it was a
very peaceful ride to a camp a few kilometres into the desert.
People apparently lived there permanently and they had already
prepared tea for us. Also dinner was soon to be served. Before
dinner, however, we all climbed the highest dune nearby and all
just sat there to have a sundowner.
Dinner was wonderful and after it, I suggested
to the others that we just sat in the desert and saw if we saw
animals. But the others (mostly the woman of the group) were so
wound up and loud that this just didn't work. So, I dragged them up
the dune again, even though when we finally arrived there, only
Carmela and Denise had made it to the top. But up there we had one
of the funniest moondowners I have had in years.
Back down I first tried to sleep outside with
half a ton of blankets on top of me. But it was just too cold and
Valerie's snoring didn't help either, so I finally moved to the
tent.
30.12.2011 - Merzouga
When I woke up today, I set the alarm clock a
little early, so I could still take a walk. I took my iPod with me
and listened to the Minkata theme from Myst, since I thought that
would be fitting. Even though it was very quiet, I realized that
only this far into the desert you are never really alone and here
the desert isn't as lifeless as it probably was further in. There
crows, spurs of fox and mice, and bushels of grass, probably living
off the dew that gathered during the night. All in all this little
walk all by myself was pretty relaxing.
After we had tea, we were off with the camels
again. We had a real breakfast back at the hotel. From here it we
went on to Mezouga. Hamid told us more about his country on the
way. The tribes of the Berber were tough ones. They were forced
into the Middle Atlas by the French and has no schools, no
electricity and only mule roads back then. Now it is of course
better, but more often than not woman are still here to bear
children and look after matters of the house. We passed a lot of
half finished houses on the way and Hamid explained to us that it
was a sign that someone had bought a piece of land and owned a
house, but only built on it when they had money. Unlike here,
people go to the Mosque on Fridays.
When we arrived in Merzouga, a small town
nested between the walls of a narrow cliff, we first took a walk
through the Alfalfa fields to visit a rug maker cooperative. There
we drank tea and learned about rug making and the different colours
used for colouring rugs (e.g. yellow is saffron, blue is indigo,
green is mint, black is mascara, red is a red flower and brown is a
red with vinegar). There are around 25 people working in the
cooperative, all living off tourists visiting and buying their
rugs.
In the evening we ate at the hotel, a tajine
with mean once again.
31.12.2011 - Aït Benhaddou
In the morning we did another bit of driving.
Amongst other things we came through the red town of Ouarzazate
where we just took some pictures and moved on. Our next stop was
Aït Benhaddou, a Unesco world heritage site, often used in movies.
It was very touristy (only five families still live here) and a lot
of people asked for money for a lot of things, even at the top of
the mountain the city was built on, you had children sitting there
asking for money to get into a small tower. There were also people
selling movie pictures or paintings made with egg yolk and candle
fire. But in spite of all of that, the city is a quiet and peaceful
place and most of the tourists that come here distribute themselves
very well.
We stayed overnight and in the evening we had a
small cooking course, making a Berber Tajine ourselves in a
restaurant nearby. I did mine together with Neera, and it was
spicy, but also a good deal burnt. But it was still reasonably OK.
Since it was New Years Eve, the restaurant also served us some
really beautiful cake with new year wishes written in Arabic on it.
After this little excursion we came back to the
hotel and played charades until midnight, and then, like good
Europeans, we toasted.
01.01.2012 - The villages of Imlil and Armed
Our next stop was the High Atlas Mountains and
the village of Imlil. Hamid told us that about 60% of the
population of Morocco lived in the mountains and that they were
more or less self-governed by the elders of the family clans.
Similar as with the palm tree plantation, the poor get food, a
house and cows.
He also told us what happened when a person
died. The person's feet were placed towards Mekka as soon as one
was sure that the person was dying, also the person was mostly
placed in the first story of the house. As soon as the person had
died, there would be no water in the house for at least 3 days and
the neighbours would cook and bring the water to the family of the
deceased. The body would be wrapped in linen, after 24 hours and
the body was wrapped again in a bigger linnen towel and then
removed from the house. The bigger linen would be removed from the
body upon burying. The women are usually not allowed on the
graveyards. They often cry and tear their faces in mourning.
From Imlil we had a hike up to the village of
Armed. Since most people were not really of the hiking kind, we had
donkeys carrying our luggage while we walked up the mountains,
through small villages, terraced fields and up rocky paths. I soon
realized that people did not like it if you took pictures of them
at all, and so I didn't. The house we stayed in, belonged to
another tour guide and a friend of Hamid's and we were introduced
to him and his family. He had some very cute kids. In the evening
we took a walk around the village and I had a nice long talk with
Denise. Then, later, we played charades again and the other tour
guide also helped playing. After dinner we sat around the hearth in
the biggest room of the house. The house and our rooms were very
sparse. Mainly just unadorned stone rooms with niches were the
woolly covers were, we could take if we had too cold. Also, the
only room that was heated was the one with the hearth. For this
night I shared a room with Valerie and Neera.
02.01.2012 - Travelling to Essaouira
In the early morning, we went for a walk again,
Neera, Valerie and me and came back just in time for a nice
breakfast. Believe it or not, this was actually the first time that
I had powdered milk.
Then, it was time to walk down again and,
avoiding the old men, peddlers who tried to sell us cheep
jewellery, we went back on our trusty bus to Marrakech. We just
stopped on the rich outskirts of town to get some money and then
later at a mall to get some lunch. The funny thing about this mall
was that seeds were sold openly and that meant that a lot of birds
were in this mall, picking those seeds from the barrels they were
heaped in.
After a short stop literally in the middle of
nowhere, we moved on to the argan oil cooperative, where we could
see how argan oil and other products made from argan nuts, a nut
that only grows in this area and only in Morocco, was produced.
When we moved on to Essaouira, we passed a lot of argan trees and
some of them had even goats in them, that were eating the leaves!
We also said our good-byes to our ever smiling driver Mouhammed; he
was to be replaced with a different driver for the rest of our
journey.
We arrived in Essaouira in the early evening,
and after we got settled in our hotel, Neera and me took a walk
around and quickly visited the fort. We found a good restaurant for
dinner it was on the roof of a building and overlooked all of the
harbour area. It even had a band. The only downside to it was, that
it was very windy, and even with my coat it was not very warm. But
since this seemed to be a frequent this, the restaurant's service
included the giving out of ponchos and so we were reasonably warm.
03.01.2012 - A day in Essaouira
We had the whole day to ourselves to explore
Essaouira. The first thing I did today was getting a massage and
visiting the hammam. Those two things were a bit away from our
hotel within a net of narrow streets filled with touristy looking
stores. The massage place was in a small house, up a very narrow
stair and in something that looked like a refurbished apartment,
but had every bit of the privacy and comfort of any such place I've
been to. But before the massage, I embarked on the strange, but
beautiful journey of my hammam visit. The hammam was again a bit
further away and I was given a towel and a bucket and the lady at
the parlour lead me towards the hammam place. We passed some men
scrubbing the street on our way. I didn't know what I had expected,
but certainly not this: the place looked like a mixture between an
underground catacomb and a slaughterhouse. After a short walk
through a dark arched tunnel, the ceilings of which was covered
with fungi and the walls were nothing but rough, uncovered masonry,
we came to the entrance area. Behind a high wooden table stood a
woman and behind her were shelves upon shelves, up to the ceiling,
filled with towels, scrubs, diapers, tampons and sanitary towels.
There were wooden benches at the side of the room and I was told to
undress to my underwears. Then I was lead, still with my bucket and
my towel down another tunnel to a room of about 30 square meters
that looked more like a place where you would slaughter something
than an actual washing room. There were no windows and the only
light source was in the tunnel. The only things in the room were a
small trough-like basin in one corner and a sink hole in the other.
I was sat on a small plastic woven mat near the sink hole and left
alone to wait. Half-naked, in semi-darkness. And then in came a
broad woman, naked but for a piece of cloth covering her nether
regions. She carried a bucket of her own with scrubs, wash towels
and all kinds of shampoos and soaps. She had a friendly, open face,
and even though I was a bit intimidated, I did not object her
touching me. First, she too a wash towel with a very rough surface
and started to scrub me down, all the while parts of her naked body
touched my own, something which I was not used to at all, but
somehow did not object to either. The procedure was like some sort
of skin peeling and I was astonished at how much dirty skin came
off. At the end of it, I was hurting all over, and my skin was
scraped and reddened, but it felt good. Then, she washed me with
shampoo at least twice and filled her bucket with hot water to
splash it over me to wash away the soap. And all the while she
tried to adhere to my wishes, using sign language since she didn't
speak French. After this experience, I was both roughed up and
tired, but happy, and after the massage, I was positively relaxed.
When I went back to the hotel I found out that
pretty much all the others had already left and so I decided to set
out on my own and walk around town. It didn't take a genius to find
out that Essaiouira was a town of surfer dudes, dreaddies and space
cakes and that it depended on the tourists through and through. I
took a stroll through the market and finally sat down at a pizza
place looking over the harbour plaza and had a pizza. There were
some children about and one of them asked me with a kind of sly
impertinence if he could have a slice of my pizza. Since the pizza
was too big for me anyway and since I appreciated his straight
forward approach, I decided to give it to him and he bounded off
with a grin, sharing it with his companions. On the more unpleasant
side, about a few minutes later I was pooed on by a sea gull. I
wonder what destiny meant by that. After I had finished my lunch I
decided to go for a walk on the beach, barefoot in the water. This
was great, up until the moment when a huge freak wave pretty much
splashed all over my trousers. I decided to let them dry in a less
windy area and walked back through the streets of the city and
through some residential areas until I reached the medina again. I
was in the middle of the souk and wandered around pretty much
aimlessly and had some nice conversations with some people on the
market. Interestingly, people here were more interested in talking
to you, than in selling you things (even though the normal
shout-outs and constant calls for attentions were abundant here as
everywhere), and I talked to a merchant who told me that it was
easier to sell things here than in Marrakesh, where competition
wasn't as harsh, even though profit was also less. The conversation
with him was so interesting and comfortable that I actually wanted
to buy something off his store, but he refused to sell me anything,
which struck me as amazing. I also talked to a Moroccan dreaddie
who told me all about his education and to a French guy who just
had this stand at the souk, but travelled to all different sort of
places. When I finally got home, it was already evening.
We had crepes for dinner and actually just
wanted to go to bed, but we stumbled upon a few guys at the hotel's
reception, one of them working at the hotel, who just had had a
huge chicken and plum tajine served for the for dinner (cooked by
the wonderful deaf cooking lady of the hotel), and as per Moroccan
custom they just invited everyone to have a share. I thought it
would make for an interesting conversation and didn't refuse. It
was a very interesting conversation. One of the guys there actually
had been to Switzerland and regarded Swiss people as rather cold.
Coming from a warm and open culture such as this, I couldn't blame
him for this statement, but tried to explain that Swiss people
needed some warming up and that once you get to know them, they are
as friendly and forthcoming as everyone. Also the subject of
European women cropped up and it really was the case that Moroccans
believed that woman mainly came here for sex and that they were
regarded as a bit slutty because of it. Again, something that I
couldn't blame them for and I had a hard time trying to explain
that this just wasn't the case. They didn't believe me, or thought
that I was somehow the exception to the rule. It was a very rousing
conversation, but interesting to have.
04.01.2012 - Sightseeing in Marrakech
It was time for our trip to Marrakech. We were
driven directly to the city centre and had a guide from there that
lead us through the gardens, then the souk and finally through
Bahia Palace. After, we had some time to look through the souks and
possibly buy things.
The city of Marrakech is beautiful, but the
only problem is that there are a lot of mopeds, especially in the
souks and that leads to a lot of smog and very bad air in the
streets. A lot of mopeds also leads to a lot of traffic chaos in
the streets. There was an incident where there was a woman on the
moped and wasn't let through and things got quite aggressive when a
man called her a whore, probably because she was dressed in vibrant
pink and wore make-up. She got off the moped and started to hit
him.
After our wanderings through the souk we came
upon the Jemaa El-Fna. It is hard to describe the tumult and the
life that is this place — I have never seen anything like it. There
are food stalls, drummers, dancers, snake charmers, story tellers
and people, so many people and cars and mopeds. It's a true assault
on all senses. It is however not possible to take pictures on the
plaza, as people will run to you with hats in their hands,
demanding money, even checking the cameras to see if there is a
picture of them if you deny them.
We soon found a café overlooking the
plaza and watched the sunset there. You had to buy the drinks at
the entrance at appropriately exorbitant prices, of course, but the
view was worth it.
After, we ate something at the food stalls. I
had a bowl of snails (mainly to see if I could eat them). There
were also other meats as well as sheep brains. I gave the latter a
pass. With our bellies full, we still walked through some souk
streets for a while. We wanted to take a taxi to our hotel, but it
took a while until we found one that wasn't terribly overpriced.
Luckily Hamid told us not to take a taxi for more than 10 dirham.
05.01.2012 - Palm tree plantations and good-byes
I decided to book a premature return flight
from Marrakech to Switzerland. I just didn't know what else to do
in Marrakech and actually just wanted to get back home. It took a
while to book a flight over Ryanair over my phone and even then I
could not print the ticket, but at least I got a seat.
Neera, Val and I took a stroll through some of
Marrakech today. We first walked around the area of our hotel and
then further down the Rue Moulay Ismail. We found a small market
there, where I bought some small candle holders. More out of chance
and just because we passed one, we decided to rent a horse carriage
that took us to the rich area of Marrakech full of houses with high
walls and lush gardens and to the palm tree plantations. It was a
long ride, but kind of relaxing.
When we got back to the hotel, Hamid took us
all out to a nice little restaurant. We had a wonderful meat and
plum tajine. This was our good-bye dinner. But even after we came
back to the hotel, we sat by the pool for the longest time and were
reminiscing our journey. There, Neera and Val also told me that
they were going to Ourika valley tomorrow. Since I didn't have
anything else to do, I asked them, if I could come along. They
didn't know if this was possible, but Neera promised that she would
ask tomorrow.
06.01.2012 - Ourika valley and a riad at the end
The next day, we asked the driver who would
bring Neera and Val to Ourika valley and he was OK with it that I
could accompany them. So we all took another drive to the Atlas
mountains. It was very entertaining, especially, since Neera is an
avid photographer and took pictures of just about everything. As
soon as we were in the valley we had some lunch and then hiked to a
waterfall and back. All in all it was very nice trip.
In the evening, we all went to the riad, Neera
had booked for her final nights in Marrakech, and spent some time
there with her while she marvelled at the luxury that was her room.
Then we went out for dinner and Val and I
returned to our hotel to stay for a final night. The next day I
would fly back home.